PIT BULL ARTICLE - HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG HOW TO COMEWHEN CALLED

How training my dog to come when called saved her life and why every dog owner should teach their dog to come to them when called!

I'll always remember the day my dog Angel was almost killed. We were at the local park that we visit everyday.

No one is ever around and this day wasn't any different. Not a soul to be found anywhere.

Angel and I were playing ball and the gate to the baseball field had opened, I'm assuming it wasn't shut securely and it opened cause of the wind. I'll admit, I wasn't watching as closely as I should have cause some kids off in the distance caught my attention. When I turned around my girl was just a white dot running towards the street. Just as I yelled out, "Angel, Come!" a car drove directly in front of her.Had she not been trained to come when called I have little doubt I would have lost her that day. :-(I learned two lessons from this event.

1. NEVER take your eyes off your dog when they are off-leash

and...

2. Training your dog to come when called is the most important command they will ever learn. I felt horrible for weeks because of my stupidity. My friends were shocked to hear of this story, mostly because Angel was nearly run over by a car but they were extremely disappointed about me not paying more attention. It goes without saying I was extremely disappointed in myself too.Some important things to consider before you train your dog to come (AKA the Recall)Before you begin training there here are some important keys to remember which will help you train a reliable recall. I've listed them below and we'll go over them one by one afterwards.
  1. Start in a distraction free area (inside your house works best)


  2. Choose a unique word


  3. Use a high value reward


  4. never call your dog to you and punish them


  5. Repetition is the key
Let's break these five items down so we can understand them better start in a distraction free area

Your living room or some other quiet room in your house would be great. With new behaviors it's best to start without any distractions. This way you can keep your dogs attention.

Many people make the mistake of training where distractions hurt their efforts. As time goes by sometimes they even start to blame their dogs or the training methods for the lack of success. When in reality it is the distractions that are causing the slow progress. Make sure there are absolutely no distractions when you begin.Choose a unique word.

Using a unique word will help keep your dog focused. By using a unique word you are less likely to confuse your dog. I also like using a unique word because it's fun and different. Choose a word and stick to it.

Avoid putting other words with your unique word.

I made the mistake when I began training my dog Angel the recall. When she didn't come to me when I called her I added, "NOW!" to my chosen word. End result? She started coming to the word "now" instead.

Ironically, I trained her very well doing that. I got lucky I suspect, so remember to use the same word and avoid putting any other words with it. Use a high value reward.

If you make it worth coming to you, your dog will do just that.

If you didn't know already I have two dogs. Angel and Honey. What's interesting about having two dogs is they both have different motivators.

Angel is a ball crazed lunatic and Honey is a tug-of-war champion. Teaching the recall to Angel was quite easy, show her a ball and say my unique word! Presto. Honey, I showed her the tug, and said my unique word! Training the behaviour was a lot easier because I knew what motivated my dogs.

Find out what motivates your dog and use it to make the training process fun and exciting for them. Imagine your dog loves a certain treat, use that to help motivate them. Or maybe they are like my dog Angel and are ball crazy. You can use that to motivate and reward them for a job well done too.

You should use a reward your dog will consider the greatest reward on earth! Never call your dog to punish them.

This is extremely important. Think about when you were a small child and your Mom would call you over after you did something you weren't supposed to. You'd get a spanking. After a while you learned to reconize your mom's "come here I'm going to spank you" voice. Did you eagerly walk over and take it on the rear?Your dog will eventually make the same association between being called and being punished. Once this happens you will have to start from the beginning again. Avoid this problem by never calling them and then punishing them. On a side note: This is one of the most common mistakes people make when training this behavior themselves. Once you break the trust between you and your dog it take a while to earn it back. If you have already made this mistake. I would suggest you choose a different unique word and starting over from the beginning. Repetition is the key.

Consistentwork and reward will result in a reliable recall.

What most people don't realize training is a life long process with your dog. You can't teach them how to sit and expect them to know it forever if they are never asked to sit again. Repetition is very important. In conclusion teaching your dog to come when called is the most important lesson they will ever learn. I ask you, as a fellow lover of the American Pit Bull Terrier, to take this training seriously and treat it with the respect it deserves. Here's to a solid recall and long happy relationship with your dog!

ARTICLE BY: http://www.pitbull-apbt.com/pitbull_to_come_called.html

BLUE NOSE PIT BULL

THE OFFICIAL UKC BREED STANDARD

Official U.K.C. Breed Standard
Revised October 21, 2004

History

Sometime during the nineteenth century, dog fanciers in England, Ireland, and Scotland began to experiment with crosses between Bulldogs and Terriers, looking for a dog that combined the gameness of the terrier with the strength and athleticism of the Bulldog.

The result was a dog that embodied all of the virtues attributed to great warriors: strength, indomitable courage, and gentleness with loved ones. Immigrants brought these bull and terrier crosses to the United States.

The American Pit Bull Terrier's many talents did not go unnoticed by farmers and ranchers who used their APBTs for protection, as catch dogs for semi-wild cattle and hogs, to hunt, to drive livestock, and as family companions.

Today, the American Pit Bull Terrier continues to demonstrate its versatility, competing successfully in Obedience, Tracking, Agility, Protection, and Weight Pulls, as well as Conformation.

The United Kennel Club was the first registry to recognize the American Pit Bull Terrier. U.K.C. founder C. Z. Bennett assigned U.K.C. registration number 1 to his own APBT, Bennett's Ring in 1898.

General Appearance


The American Pit Bull Terrier is a medium-sized, solidly built, short-coated dog with smooth, well-defined musculature. This breed is both powerful and athletic. The body is just slightly longer than tall, but bitches may be somewhat longer in body than dogs. The length of the front leg (measured from point of elbow to the ground) is approximately equal to one-half of the dog's height at the withers. The head is of medium length, with a broad, flat skull, and a wide, deep muzzle. Ears are small to medium in size, high set, and may be natural or cropped. The relatively short tail is set low, thick at the base and tapers to a point. The American Pit Bull Terrier comes in all colors and color patterns. This breed combines strength and athleticism with grace and agility and should never appear bulky or muscle-bound or fine-boned and rangy.

Characteristics


The essential characteristics of the American Pit Bull Terrier are strength, confidence, and zest for life. This breed is eager to please and brimming over with enthusiasm. APBTs make excellent family companions and have always been noted for their love of children. Because most APBTs exhibit some level of dog aggression and because of its powerful physique, the APBT requires an owner who will carefully socialize and obedience train the dog. The breed's natural agility makes it one of the most capable canine climbers so good fencing is a must for this breed. The APBT is not the best choice for a guard dog since they are extremely friendly, even with strangers. Aggressive behavior toward humans is uncharacteristic of the breed and highly undesirable. This breed does very well in performance events because of its high level of intelligence and its willingness to work.

The American Pit Bull Terrier has always been capable of doing a wide variety of jobs so exaggerations or faults should be penalized in proportion to how much they interfere with the dog's versatility.

Head


The APBT head is unique and a key element of breed type. It is large and broad, giving the impression of great power, but it is not disproportionate to the size of the body. Viewed from the front, the head is shaped like a broad, blunt wedge. When viewed from the side, the skull and muzzle are parallel to one another and joined by a well defined, moderately deep stop. Supraorbital arches over the eyes are well defined but not pronounced. The head is well chiseled, blending strength, elegance, and character.

SKULL - The skull is large, flat or slightly rounded, deep, and broad between the ears. Viewed from the top, the skull tapers just slightly toward the stop. There is a deep median furrow that diminishes in depth from the stop to the occiput. Cheek muscles are prominent but free of wrinkles. When the dog is concentrating, wrinkles form on the forehead, which give the APBT his unique expression.

MUZZLE - The muzzle is broad and deep with a very slight taper from the stop to the nose, and a slight falling away under the eyes. The length of muzzle is shorter than the length of skull, with a ratio of approximately 2:3. The topline of the muzzle is straight. The lower jaw is well developed, wide and deep. Lips are clean and tight.

Faults: Snipey muzzle; flews; weak lower jaw.

TEETH - The American Pit Bull Terrier has a complete set of evenly spaced, white teeth meeting in a scissors bite. Fault: Level bite.

Serious Faults: Undershot, or overshot bite; wry mouth; missing teeth (this does not apply to teeth that have been lost or removed by a veterinarian).

NOSE - The nose is large with wide, open nostrils. The nose may be any color.

EYES - Eyes are medium size, round to almond-shaped, and set well apart and low on the skull. All colors are equally acceptable except blue, which is a serious fault. Haw should not be visible.

Serious Faults: Bulging eyes; both eyes not matched in color; blue eyes.

EARS - Ears are high set and may be natural or cropped without preference. If natural, semi-prick or rose are preferred. Prick or flat, wide ears are not desired.

Neck


The neck is of moderate length and muscular. There is a slight arch at the crest. The neck widens gradually from where it joins the skull to where it blends into well laid-back shoulders. The skin on the neck is tight and without dewlap.

Faults: Neck too short and thick; thin or weak neck; ewe neck; dewlap.

Forequarters


The shoulder blades are long, wide, muscular, and well laid back. The upper arm is roughly equal in length to the shoulder blade and joins it at an apparent right angle.

The forelegs are strong and muscular. The elbows are set close to the body. Viewed from the front, the forelegs are set moderately wide apart and perpendicular to the ground. The pasterns are short, powerful, straight, and flexible. When viewed in profile, the pasterns are nearly erect.

Faults: Upright or loaded shoulders; elbows turned outward or tied-in; down at the pasterns; front legs bowed; wrists knuckled over; toeing in or out.

Body


The chest is deep, well filled in, and moderately wide with ample room for heart and lungs, but the chest should never be wider than it is deep. The forechest does not extend much beyond the point of shoulder. The ribs extend well back and are well sprung from the spine, then flattening to form a deep body extending to the elbows. The back is strong and firm. The topline inclines very slightly downward from the withers to a broad, muscular, level back. The loin is short, muscular and slightly arched to the top of the croup, but narrower than the rib cage and with a moderate tuck-up. The croup is slightly sloping downward.

Hindquarters


The hindquarters are strong, muscular, and moderately broad. The rump is well filled in on each side of the tail and deep from the pelvis to the crotch. The bone, angulation, and musculature of the hindquarters are in balance with the forequarters. The thighs are well developed with thick, easily discerned muscles. Viewed from the side, the hock joint is well bent and the rear pasterns are well let down and perpendicular to the ground. Viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are straight and parallel to one another.

Faults: Narrow hindquarters; hindquarters shallow from pelvis to crotch; lack of muscle; straight or over angulated stifle joint; cow hocks; sickle hocks; bowed legs.

Feet


The feet are round, proportionate to the size of the dog, well arched, and tight. Pads are hard, tough, and well cushioned. Dewclaws may be removed.

Fault: Splayed feet.

Tail


The tail is set on as a natural extension of the topline, and tapers to a point. When the dog is relaxed, the tail is carried low and extends approximately to the hock. When the dog is moving, the tail is carried level with the backline. When the dog is excited, the tail may be carried in a raised, upright position (challenge tail), but never curled over the back (gay tail).

Fault: Long tail (tail tip passes beyond point of hock).

Serious faults: Gay tail (not to be confused with challenge tail); kinked tail.

Disqualification: Bobbed tail.

Coat


The coat is glossy and smooth, close, and moderately stiff to the touch.

Faults: Curly, wavy, or sparse coat.

Disqualification: Long coat.

Color


Any color, color pattern, or combination of colors is acceptable, except for merle.

Disqualification: Merle

Height and Weight


The American Pit Bull Terrier must be both powerful and agile so actual weight and height are less important than the correct proportion of weight to height. Desirable weight for a mature male in good condition is between 35 and 60 pounds. Desirable weight for a mature female in good condition is between 30 and 50 pounds. Dogs over these weights are not to be penalized unless they are disproportionately massive or rangy.

Gait


The American Pit Bull Terrier moves with a jaunty, confident attitude, conveying the impression that he expects any minute to see something new and exciting. When trotting, the gait is effortless, smooth, powerful, and well coordinated, showing good reach in front and drive behind. When moving, the backline remains level with only a slight flexing to indicate suppleness. Viewed from any position, legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet cross or interfere with each other. As speed increases, feet tend to converge toward center line of balance.

Faults: Legs not moving on the same plane; legs over reaching; legs crossing over in front or rear; rear legs moving too close or touching; rolling; pacing; paddling; sidewinding; hackney action; pounding.

Disqualifications: Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Viciousness or extreme shyness. Unilateral or bilateral deafness. Bobbed tail. Albinism. Merle.

Note: Although some level of dog aggression is characteristic of this breed, handlers will be expected to comply with U.K.C. policy regarding dog temperament at U.K.C. events.

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Pitbull Information

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We ship our pups to anywhere in the USA. The cost for shipping is 300.00. Pick ups are welcome. All pup will be current on vaccinations and will come with their UKC registration papers. Upon receiving your pup we guarantee they will be well socialized and in excellent health. We are not a puppy mill and only have a couple of select breedings per year. So if you see something you like don't hesitate to call!

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WHY BSL WILL NEVER WORK.

Why breed specific legislation will never work

BSL is a flawed concept from the moment it is conceived. In most cases the dogs are targeted leaving the owner, which is the responsible, rational thinking party, out of it.

Some impose fines along with their laws but are often not enforced to the maximum so the owner gets away with a slap on the wrist.

Dogs are not the problem and BSL does not recognize this. People are the problem and until we find a way to punish people for their neglectful actions which allow dogs to bite and terrorize the public we will never stop the problem.

First problem is, take one breed away, these people will find another breed to replace it.

Since the APBT bans the Rottweiler is now on the rise as the most popular breed.

Now these dogs are taking heat from the general public and the BSL supporters. Again they are restricting the dogs and not the people.

BSL can be compared to gender profiling or racial profiling. Simply because a dog appears to be a dog on the restricted list it is treated as one.

What if you were driving down the road and the police took you to jail, sentenced you, and placed you on death row just for looking like a certain ethnic group? BSL does exactly that to dogs.

So why is it then that more BSL laws are implemented daily? God forbid a person have to take responsibility for their irresponsible actions and BSL supports these people by not placing very harsh punishments on them.

Related Links and Resources

Breed specific petitions you can download, sign and pass around to family, friends, and co-workers. click here to go to the Breed Specific Legislation petition page.

A very good site about BSL which includes area's where BSL is imposed can be found by going to the following web site: http://www.Understand-A-Bull.com.

Another good BSL site is StopBSL.com. StopBSL.com is a web site devoted to the breed specific legislation issue. You will find BSL information, alternatives, and outstanding links to BSL related and Pit Bull related web sites. Visit them today and show your support.

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HOW TO PREFORM CPR ON A NEW BORN PUPPY

CPR in Newborns


Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.



Illustration of where to do chest compressions on a puppyIf a puppy is born and is not breathing, follow the cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) directions outlined below. Have one person contact your veterinarian for help.
  1. Clear the airway. Hold the puppy's head downward to allow gravity to help drain fluid from the mouth, throat, and lungs. Use a suction bulb to remove any fluid from the airway.

  2. Give two or three little puffs of air into the puppy's mouth and nose. In order to do this, your mouth needs to close around the puppy's mouth and nose. Do not give large breaths, as the puppy's lungs can be easily damaged. Be aware that some diseases such as Brucellosis may result in weak or dead puppies and may be transmitted to humans through contact with the puppy or fluids.

  3. Check for a heartbeat; feel the chest wall between your fingers or use a stethoscope. If no heartbeat is found, compress the chest in the area right at the back of the bent elbow. This is the approximate location of the heart. Press the chest between the thumb and forefinger. Compress quickly. Remember a newborn puppy's normal heart rate is 120-180+ beats per minute.

Every 15-20 seconds, give another couple puffs of air.

Each minute check for a heartbeat/breathing. If the heart is beating slowly, stimulate the puppy by rubbing it roughly (but carefully) with a towel, turning it over in your hands, or holding it by its scruff. This puppy needs stimulation and may need you to give it a few breaths of air in order for it to live. Continue to work with this puppy for 20 minutes to see if it can be saved.

If the heart is not beating, continue the CPR for about 5 minutes. If the puppy is not alive and active by then, it is unlikely the puppy will be saved.



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